Las Pampas de Rurrenebaque, Bolivia

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Attack of the Wild Pigs
Tue Nov 12, 2002 5:29 pm

Well, we made it safe and sound to Rurrenabaque, despite the airplane graveyard we passed on the way into the airport. The ride in was actually quite nice. We had a converted cargo plane, and the military steward served us crackers and drinks and gave us earplugs, which we didnt end up using.

When we arrived, we were met from a representative of Fluvial Tours, the group we used and will recommend to others for both the pampas and jungle tours. We got a free ride into the city, settled into our hotel, and then met with the seven others from our group at the tour office to talk about what we would be doing for the pampas tour.

Then we killed time by having a great breakfast at Camilia´s, swimming in the pool till the rain moved in, and then by having a few drinks at the Mosquito Bar.

Day 1 of the Pampas
====================
Early the next morning, we packed up and headed out by jeep to the pampas. It was a longish trip in cramped quarters, but we did get to see some caiman and some gigantic birds on the side of the road on the way there. The most exciting part of the ride, though, was driving through the muddy section and sliding all over the road. Things got real interesting when we tried to pass a bus. We made it, but just barely missed sliding into the side of the bus. It was all in good fun, though, and we cheered when we made it past the pokey bus.

We had lunch at a small restaurant, then hopped on a boat to go to our camp. Boats are WAY nicer than being cramped in a jeep. We saw all sorts of animals along the way, including: Capybara -A large semiaquatic rodent (Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris) of tropical South America, having short limbs and a vestigial tail and often attaining lengths of more than 1.2 meters (4 feet) Think rodent of unusual size. Birds of paradise Herons Cappuchino monkies Small yellow monkies Caiman Anaconda Pink river dolphins Whole bunches of other birds

We finally arived at camp -- a bunch of cabins with beds and mosquito nets, an outhouse, a dining area, and a fire for the cook. We also had our own resident caiman who liked to eat pasta, howler monkies making their strange cappuchino machine-like noises over our heads bright and early in the morning, and let´s not forget the birds. They liked to make tons of noise in the morning as well. There were also GIGANTIC wasps building a nest in the bathroom, but they left us alone, so they were ok.

That night, we took the boat out again on the river, and searched for caiman eyes with our flashlights. Anytime a beam of light hit a caiman´s eye, it shone red in the darkness -- creepy! There were TONS of the critters lurking in the water -- good thing none of us fell out. The stars that night were the second biggest attraction to me. It was a new moon and the stars were SO bright. I spent more time staring upward than at the water, I think. Managed to see a few shooting stars as well. Absolutely fantastic.

At one point, the guide turned off the motor, and we floated gently downstream, listening to the animal sounds around us. All of a sudden, there was a splashing noise and things started hopping around in our boat! Some silly fish had decided to leap out of the water into the lap of the couple in front of me, and into the back of the boat. Now, why the fish would think this was a good idea, I´m not sure. Maybe they got a kick out of our surprised faces. :)

When we returned, we played cards for a bit, then headed to our trusty mosquito nets for a night´s rest. I was safely within my net, when I heard a yelp from outside. "Is it a bat?" someone asked? "No, there is a spider INSIDE my mosquito net" I heard, followed by a flashlight being dropped. "Keith! Get rid of it please!" I heard. After that followed a fairly hilarous dialogue. "Ew! It crunched!" "Uh oh, I can only find two of the legs . . . where did the body go?" and "It´s still ALIVE!!" In the end, the poor spider bit it, and everyone drifted off to sleep, if not a little uneasily.

Day 2 of the Pampas
====================
After a beautiful breakfast (the food was great on all of this tour) we went out anaconda hunting. We spent the morning tromping through grass and swamp to find some snakes. Patty was the first to discover one -- a baby in the grass that the guide had missed. We saw six anacondas in all, including one that was having an eel for lunch. That one was fun to watch. We saw two types of anacondas -- the anaconda constrictor, which was black, and the anaconda cobra constrictor, which was yellowish and puffed out it´s neck like a cobra´s when it was upset. The black ones can get humongous, up to 9 meters in length, but we only saw some medium sized ones-- about 2 meters.

We then returned to camp, had lunch, and headed out for our afternoon activities: swimming with the pink dolphins in the river, and pirhana fishing. The river was quite refreshing, and none of us got eaten by pirhanas, which was a plus. As for fishing, I managed to hook two pirhanas and a sardine, plus a bunch of pirhanas that got away. Patty was not so lucky.

For dinner that night, we ate the pirhanas, which were good, though they didn´t have much meat on them. (We had other food too)

That evening, we also watched the sun set over the pampas, which was quite nice.

Day 3 of the Pampas
====================
Didn´t have much to do the last day of the tour. In the morning we took the boat upstream, but didn´t see any new animals. In the afternoon, we headed back into town and got REALLY dusty in the back of the jeep. Patty and I were completely covered in brown dirt by the time we got back to the hotel. The showers there were cold, but we didn´t care, we were so hot, sticky, and dirty. I also attempted to clean my clothes that evening -- SOME of it dried. If any of you go to the tropics, don´t expect your clothes to dry in the humidity.

(Continued in the jungle . . .)
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